INDIGO COTTON JERSEY

[PHILIP FLORANCE]

    I am honoured to be a new member of the ETHICAL FASHION FORUM.

 

    For nearly 12 months I have been searching the globe for INDIGO DYED ORGANIC (FAIR TRADE) COTTON JERSEY. In that time, I have made contact with over 60 potential suppliers from China, India, Pakistan, Peru, Korea and Turkey without success. Japan does produce indigo jersey, but the high price is prohibitive.

    I am wanting INDIGO (natural or synthetic) DYED ORGANIC COTTON JERSEY (single jersey), 140 grams per square metre in weight and approximately 150 cms. wide.

 

   Would appreciate any information.

 

 

[webahandbag]

you have contacted some suppliers fron China, India, ,,, the price of raw materials are on rise, so does the farbic. and the EW price for handbag has also rised for more than 10% and i am sourcing new suppliers

[N.J.Bond]

Hi Florance ,

We can take it up . What is the minimum . Natural Indigo yarn (on Organic cotton certified byScal/Gots) dyed on <3%chemical involved at bleaching stage (Naoh and Nacl) 16.5~17kgs weighing one roll gives approximately70/75 Ts.Depth is as shown in the image attached . Fast ness is 2.5~2.7 .

Give your e.mail ,more detail will be sent.

[PHILIP FLORANCE]

Hi N.J.Bond,

Thankyou for your reply. Your website indicates that you only produce woven fabrics....I am wanting knitted jersey for making t shirts, and I am not wanting the fabric to be bleached, but to be deep coloured indigo.
Can you confirm if JERSEY is possible for you and I will then send further information.
My [e-mail]

Look forward to your reply.

Best wishes,

Philip

[Offset Warehouse]

Does the jersey need to be dyed when you buy it? Or are you open to finding your ethical jersey and then dyeing it up through a different manufacturer/service provider?

We supply a variety of jerseys at reasonable prices, see the Offset Warehouse Fabric Shop , and we also have lots of contacts with various natural dyelabs who could help you out? We can also sort out reduced rates for larger quantities of fabric, depending on how much you're looking for.

Thanks,

Charlie.
www.offsetwarehouse.com

[PHILIP FLORANCE]

Hi Charlie,

Thanks for your email.
I am wanting the yarn to be dyed with indigo before being knitted into jersey. This results in an aesthetically superior garment when laundered.

Appreciate your help,

Philip

[Offset Warehouse]

Hi Philip,

I see - So perhaps sourcing the yarn to be knitted into the fabric is also an option?

I'll let you know what I find!

Best wishes,

Charlie.

[Rachel Powell]

Hi Philip,

Have you tried Phil Wheeler from Organic Cotton biz? Not sure if he has it in stock at the moment but he is very passionate about his organic cotton supplies and also has great contact with his suppliers out in India.

Make sure you're careful with the quality of the jersey you use as I am sure you know it can vary quite a lot. Can I ask how come you haven't met with any success with the 60 suppliers you have spoken to? Personally as a natural dye specialist I don't like using indigo due to the chemicals involved though you can get eco indigo now - might be worth also adding to your list of needs?

Phil is a member on here but give me a shout if you can't find him and I'll post over his email to you.

Good luck,

Rachel

[PHILIP FLORANCE]

Hi Rachel,

Really appreciate your email. I have just sent Phil an email detailing my requirements.

I have not met with success for several reasons, the most common being that the suppliers/agents assume INDIGO is a hue or shade of the colour 'blue', no matter how detailed my explaination. From India, in partiular, the initial response is that they can deliver, but invariably, they cannot. Quantity is also a problem as many mills require 2000+ metres. I am only willing to commit to 1000m initially as Having used indigo jersey in the 80's, I am well aware of the problems that can occur. Until the garments are laundered, you cannot see the problems.

As for the dyeing, there are now indigo dyes carrying the GOTS seal of approval.

Best wishes Rachel, and thanks again,

Philip



Philip

[Rachel Powell]

Hi Philip,

Fantastic you got in touch with Phil... he's lovely and am sure he will do his best to help you.

I don't know about commercial indigo dyeing methods (I suppose mine is more artisan scale) but you have to multiple dip dye it until you get the desired shade so can be a bit tricky to match exactly - I'm not sure why they can't just dip it to the exact colour match you are needing? Being their speciality you would guess that they should be able to fulfill this requirement easily?

If Phil has no luck get back in touch as I have a couple of other places that might be of use - they are smaller scale manufacturers so more flexibleto meet orders and specialise in natural dyes too... I know they can dye up fabric to order so you will probably get more success with a specialist like the ones I have sourced.

Thanks for the info on the GOTS indigo - I hae the smell of the chemicals in addition to the thought of using them so have always stayed away from it. I have contacted my specialist dye supplier to discuss with him as well.

Kind regards,

Rachel

[N.J.Bond]

Hi, Rachel

The problem with Indigo natural dye is it is basically an herb ,live -extracted from the fresh whole plant ,with in 48 hours of it is cut and brought to extraction plant and dye is extracted . Refer to the youtube /the colornature.com to see alive the Indigo natural plant based dye extraction . Dye is extracted from roots stems tweeds ,leaves, flowers and also seeds in this case.

Gots Indigo available as it is needed by standardisation for industry , similar to processed food and preserved long as to ones convenience, comfort and luxury of the modern industrial demand not the small scale live processing units needs.In a star-hotel food is tasty but ants and fly will shy away given choice from home made . Anybody can make star hotel food but it takes a cook for home made with love .

Next battle is, when it is dyed (rather oxizenated/ air dyed) Natural enzyme and fermentation is key factors here. They are traditionally country pot -vatting done.The vatting is always old , as old has the life time of one man some time involved, is common. In Colonial homes Indigo dye pot vatting was common scene every home.

Small lots yarns dying only possible as it was done in small organizations small scales since past many centuries as decision centric is not process centric production in those days,for man-kind. It takes over a person like body organic sheath takes over a seed, to protect for years ,decades and even for centuries given air and heat moisture conditions ,till the seed is ready to germinate by nature. Here till yur ignorance is gone and awarenessreturned .

What it does to human is symbolically told in 'priest truths' that it protects with its 1000 natural active compounds ( SCINECE HAS EXPLORED ONLY , 11/ 13 NATURAL CHEMICAL COMPOUND TILL DATE)
in and out , out in Aura energy and in Prana enrichment to scavenge the dead cells to give body support Solid Immune System.It is not one day pill's job/ a mother can not give birth because Industry want it urgent with Gots certified.

It was during the one eyed science time of last 150 years we forgot natural Indigo . Time and Space is not matter in Indigo dying , it is organism alive as it is destined to nurish and uplift ones soul. You need revere & respect mother nature only then she open her secrets, not to all ,only for devoted few and Alchemist do not want manufactured Gold once they got it . The purpose is in getting it not what left out .Hence for a traditional dyer it is live-processing what is important, as his life is given in it .It maybe similar to Like PICASSO'S life is in his scribbled ink works also.

Indigo dying was originally practiced by Mystical Artist and and early crafts men learned from them and passed on it in live culture and traditions methods.It is recorded in mores and codes in instinctive experiences recorded in the vernacular languages. It is not possible to express or store this wisdom in papers , hence inspit of 1000 years of recorded historicaly of practice , Indigo craft till day remains a secret only .

It takes a devote not a synthetic Indigo dyer.It takes explorer and journeys like Mr.Phillips took to Continents after Continents, other wise everybody would have succeed in it .

[Rachel Powell]

Thanks N.J.

I know India is one of the greatest sources for the best indigo plants - I think in areas that are touched by the river Ganges? I know they are trying to bring it back in Bangladesh as well from what I read.

I think it the western world a lot of natural dyers use Amonnia to activate the colour and aside from smelling very bad I've always felt very uncomfortable with using it because of the chemicals. I am guessing you don't use this chemical with your dyeing - it could not be very good for people, especially in the temperatures in India?

Am curious to learn more... have added you as a friend so that we can talk further without taking over Philip's discussion (sorry Philip).

Kind regards,

Rachel

[PHILIP FLORANCE]

Hi Rachel,

I really appreciate your time and input.

Phil has replied and can deliver, but advises against natural indigo, citing problems with dye fastness. Natural indigo was of course my first choice, but I was only able to source it from Japan, where the price was prohibitive. True indigo garments from Japan are rare and truly amazing, and highly prized.

After reading your conversation with N.J., I am encouraged to persue natural indigo again. I would appreciate having the details of the smaller manufacturers you mentioned. Ideally, I would love to work with a smaller supplier/community; to be able to develop a close working relationship and produce a product with real provenance.

You have got me very excited about the possibilities Rachel.

Best wishes and thanks again,

Philip