Ida Horner's Posts - Ethical Fashion SOURCE Network2024-03-28T10:17:31ZIda Hornerhttps://ethicalfashionforum.ning.com/profile/IdaHornerhttps://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1960820435?profile=RESIZE_48X48&width=48&height=48&crop=1%3A1https://ethicalfashionforum.ning.com/profiles/blog/feed?user=1qkm73tslgdch&xn_auth=noIs Bark Cloth the most sustainable fabric?tag:ethicalfashionforum.ning.com,2011-02-01:2622461:BlogPost:830432011-02-01T11:30:00.000ZIda Hornerhttps://ethicalfashionforum.ning.com/profile/IdaHorner
Bark Cloth (Lubugo in Luganda- which is the language spoken by the tribe that produces this cloth) is a non woven fabric made from the bark of the MUTUBA (MITUBA- PLURAL) Tree (FICUS NATALENSINS) and is produced by the Baganda tribe in Uganda. It was widely used in dress making and was widely worn by the Kings and queens of Uganda prior to the arrival of cotton which I think was introduced by Arabs or Indians.<br></br>
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The cloth is used widely in Uganda's Art and Craft industry, Traditional…
Bark Cloth (Lubugo in Luganda- which is the language spoken by the tribe that produces this cloth) is a non woven fabric made from the bark of the MUTUBA (MITUBA- PLURAL) Tree (FICUS NATALENSINS) and is produced by the Baganda tribe in Uganda. It was widely used in dress making and was widely worn by the Kings and queens of Uganda prior to the arrival of cotton which I think was introduced by Arabs or Indians.<br/>
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The cloth is used widely in Uganda's Art and Craft industry, Traditional ceremonies and as a burial shroud.<br/>
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Bark cloth Hat<a href="http://www.birdsontheblog.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/tony.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-12984" title="tony" src="http://www.birdsontheblog.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/tony.jpg" height="75" width="75"/></a><br/>
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The production process of bark cloth is labour intensive as you can see from this video. What I find really interesting about this fabric is that you have to plant more trees and if you cut down the trees, you have no chance of future harvest!<br/>
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Sometime last year I was approached by a group of growers based in Central Uganda who asked me to help raise awareness of this fabric and hopefully bring it into main stream use.<br/>
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By way of trying to understand and learn about this group I asked Fred the group leader a couple of questions via email<br/>
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<ul>
<li>Who is involved and why?</li>
</ul>
<blockquote>As per the objective of LET ART TALK of empowering communities through Art,part of what we do is encouraging local people to use locally available materials. Bark cloth(Lubugo) is one of such materials. <br/> Kibinge Sub County was once renowned for bark cloth making. However, the craft has been dying out with in the past couple of decades.<br/>
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It is an agricultural; area where everybody is now affected by the current threat of climatic change and Global warming. The communities have now realised the importance of trees to agriculture. The Mutuba tree is the most friendly agro forestry tree.<br/>
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So by planting more Mituba (Plural) trees, we are taking care of the environment. With time, we hope that the more trees planted, the more co2 will be offset and hence solving the climatic change issue. Nobody can do it for us. What the international community should do is make more research about bark cloth so that we can have more Mituba trees.<br/>
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Because of their renewable nature, these trees will stay around for more than 100 years and hence addressing the climatic change issue which in Africa is primarily due to deforestation.<br/>
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The entire community is involved; where by the Men and male youth are getting more involved it the craft of making bark cloth, the women and female youth are trying to experiment with it to make products.<br/>
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This is therefore a new form of employment for the would be idle youth and it reduces on rural urban migration for them to look for jobs which are not even there.<br/>
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They all together are involved in the massive planting of the Mituba trees.<br/>
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Almost every household is part of the project.</blockquote>
<ul>
<li><span style="color: #000099;">Why Should folk here in the West be interested in this Fabric?</span></li>
</ul>
<blockquote>(a)Because the West is more advanced in technology and research methods, they stand a better chance to arrive on the best possible ways to harness this fabric. Once we have all arrived at the best way to use this fabric, the worry of luck of enough trees to offset Co2 will be lessened. <br/> (b)The west is now looking for new approaches to helping Africa. Some of us believe that Africa should not just be given money but traded with what the west can use.<br/>
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(c)If the West provides the market for this fabric, it will contribute directly or indirectly towards the millennium development goals.<br/>
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(d)We need to give confidence to the local people involved in the projects so that the trees can be more protected by them since it will be a source livelihood for them.<br/>
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We want to have over a million trees planted in the next few years. We want to make forests with out having to have forests. This can only be achieved if there is support from folks out there who can provide a market for this renewable fabric.</blockquote>
I approached The University of Creative Arts in Farnham, St Martins College London and Cavendish College. I was pleasantly surprised when they all agreed to promote the bark cloth amongst their students and this week a Student from Farnham sent me photos of what she has done with the samples I provided and has decided to use the fabric for her project.<br/>
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In the meantime a South African wine company that has teamed up with the NGO SAVE THE RHINO asked the growers to come up with a bottle carrier that is truly African and this is what has been acheived<br/>
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<a href="http://www.birdsontheblog.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/IMG_03931.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-12978" title="IMG_0393[1]" src="http://www.birdsontheblog.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/IMG_03931-300x225.jpg" height="225" width="300"/></a><br/>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.birdsontheblog.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/IMG_03921.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-12980 aligncenter" title="IMG_0392[1]" src="http://www.birdsontheblog.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/IMG_03921-300x225.jpg" height="225" width="300"/></a></p>
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Bottle Carrier"]<a href="http://www.birdsontheblog.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/IMG_03951.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-12979" title="IMG_0395[1]" src="http://www.birdsontheblog.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/IMG_03951-300x225.jpg" height="225" width="300"/></a>"wine bottle carrier<br/>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.birdsontheblog.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/IMG_03941.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-12981" title="IMG_0394[1]" src="http://www.birdsontheblog.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/IMG_03941-300x225.jpg" height="225" width="300"/></a></p>
<p><br/> <br/>
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I had an out of the blue enquiry from a woman based in Holland who was looking to source burial shrouds made from sustainable fabrics as she felt that burying hardwood in the ground is not environmentally friendly and this is the prototype they came up by way of a prototype!<br/>
Burial shroud- prototype</p>
<p><a href="http://www.birdsontheblog.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/IMG_03891.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-12982" title="IMG_0389[1]" src="http://www.birdsontheblog.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/IMG_03891-300x225.jpg" height="225" width="300"/></a></p>
<p>"Burial shroud- prototype"]<a href="http://www.birdsontheblog.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/IMG_03901.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-12983" title="IMG_0390[1]" src="http://www.birdsontheblog.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/IMG_03901-300x225.jpg" height="225" width="300"/></a><br/> <br/> A member of the group is a bark cloth artist and he was commissioned to make this piece by a Canadian tourist for a cool $400, and trust me folk when I say that is a fortune in the Uganda situation</p>
<p><br/> Bark cloth wall hanging"]<a href="http://www.birdsontheblog.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/161220101188.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-12986" title="161220101188" src="http://www.birdsontheblog.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/161220101188-300x225.jpg" height="225" width="300"/></a><br/> <br/>
If you are an artist or textile designer and can help develop this fabric into main stream use please get in <a href="http://ethnicsupplies.co.uk/contact/">touch</a></p>
<p> </p>
<a href="http://www.birdsontheblog.co.uk/is-bark-cloth-the-most-sustainable-fabric/" target="_blank">Post from BIRDS ON THE BLOG</a><br/>
<p> </p>Africa's fabrics - wild silk from Madagascartag:ethicalfashionforum.ning.com,2009-12-08:2622461:BlogPost:320822009-12-08T18:37:17.000ZIda Hornerhttps://ethicalfashionforum.ning.com/profile/IdaHorner
When I tell people that <a href="http://www.ethnicsupplies.co.uk">Ethnic Supplies</a> stocks fashion accessories made from wild silk one of the questions I get asked without fail is that<br />
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<em>Is there enough for commercial purposes?</em><br />
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And the answer yes there is, in Madagascar. The best part is that there is a whole conservation project underway to protect Madagascar’s natural heritage.<br />
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Tapia, or <em>Uapaca Bojeri</em>, is the staple food of the wild Malagasy silkworm, called <em>Landibe…</em>
When I tell people that <a href="http://www.ethnicsupplies.co.uk">Ethnic Supplies</a> stocks fashion accessories made from wild silk one of the questions I get asked without fail is that<br />
<br />
<em>Is there enough for commercial purposes?</em><br />
<br />
And the answer yes there is, in Madagascar. The best part is that there is a whole conservation project underway to protect Madagascar’s natural heritage.<br />
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Tapia, or <em>Uapaca Bojeri</em>, is the staple food of the wild Malagasy silkworm, called <em>Landibe (borocera madagascariensis)</em>. Both tapia and <em>landibe</em> are only found in Madagascar.<br />
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The tapia forests are the last remnants of highland primary forest, which are threatened by human destruction through bush fires, firewood collection and charcoal production. The tapia forest is home to a great wealth of products in addition to silkworms, used by the local population; including fruit, medicinal plants, mushrooms and plant dyes.<br />
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As the community depends on this forest heavily a project was started to conserve the forests but also ensure that the communities do not lose their way of life<br />
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<strong><em>Ny Tanintsika</em></strong>’s project was set up to revitalize the silk industry in the Amoron’i Mania, south central region of Madagascar with the aim of increasing wild silk production while conserving the tapia forests. The projects benefits the poorest within the community especially the women who are involved in silk product.<br />
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The village artisans are supported through all the stages of silk production and its transformation into different products, right through to marketing support and sales and a annual target to replant the tapia is set for each village<br />
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The significance of silk in Malagasy life</b><br />
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As we all know when one hears the word SILK one immediately associates it with luxury or even indulgence. But something we don't do, I certainly never did is think about its origins and the role it plays in the culture of the communities that produce/process it.<br />
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Silk holds an important place in Malagasy culture and according to a Malagasy proverb, <strong>“Ny Lambalandy: velona itafiana, maty isalorana”,</strong> which loosely translated means <strong>In silk one drapes ones' self whilst alive as well as well as when dead.</strong> Silk is a sign of nobility for Malagasy people and the deceased have to be wrapped in a silk burial shroud, or “lambamena”, as sign of wealth.<br />
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On my last visit to Madagascar I happened upon a procession on the outskirts of a town called Antisirabe (which is a must visit when in Madagascar), I am not quite sure what the ceremony is called can only be described as waking the dead as it was do with celebrating the lives of those that died a while ago. It involves reopening the tomb and wrapping the body in a new silk cloth, lots of food, street dancing and it goes on for at least three days<br />
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typical tomb in Madagascar"]<img class="size-medium wp-image-663" title="DSC_0053" src="http://ethnicsupplies.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/DSC_0053-300x199.jpg" alt="typical tomb in Madagascar" width="300" height="199"/><br />
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funeral processesion in Madagascar"]<img class="size-medium wp-image-662" title="DSC_0058" src="http://ethnicsupplies.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/DSC_0058-300x199.jpg" alt="funeral processesion in Madagascar" width="300" height="199"/>[/caption]<br />
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In the past, villagers bordering the tapia forest did not value wild silk. During cocoon collection, the eggs were thrown away and the protein-rich chrysalides were eaten or sold.<br />
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But today Silk production has become an important income-generating activity for villagers and is a promising sector because there is a large market for silk products, both locally and in the international market.<br />
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I once heard someone say that if you wear Armani suits chances are you are wearing Malagasy silk as it is the very best silk you can get in the world. Is this therefore Africa's best secret?<br />
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Weaving with wild silk is an activity peculiar to the Amoron’i Mania region, which is home to Madagascar’s most extensive tapia forests.<br />
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There are several people involved in the different stages of silk production; cocoon collection, reeling, weaving and the value adding of silk into clothing or decorative items (bags, shoes, clothes, lampshades…).<br />
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<b>The production proces, how the cocoons are transformed into a usable fabric, is an involved if not fascinating process.</b><br />
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When Silk worm cocoons are collected in the tapia forest, the Landibe eggs are subjected to various treatments, before there are turned into usable thread.<br />
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The first stage involves the soaking of the cocoons in water and are turned upside down using a simple metal tool.<br />
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This treatment increases their volume four or five-fold, and they are then dried in the sun. When dry, they are boiled in soapy water for an hour and a half, and are kept in a container or cooking pot for about four days.<br />
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After this fermentation, the silk material is produced, which is cleaned with soap and dried. It is beaten with a stick to make it suppler. After drying, the wild silk is ready to be spun. As in the past, spinners in Manandriana use traditional weaving equipment.<br />
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After the thread is formed, women remove the gum in it by boiling it in soapy water for about a quarter of an hour and then leaving it to soak for half a day. The thread is then rinsed and dried in the shade.<br />
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Weavers in Madagascar traditionally use brown thread, dyed naturally, to make burial shrouds. However, faced with evolution in silk products on the market, women are diversifying to produce a range of fabrics and scarves in a wide range of natural colours.<br />
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They use a mix of domesticated silk and wild silk, experimenting with different weaving techniques and natural dyes. About twenty plants are used to make the different colours, which can come from different parts of the plant: their leaves, stems, bark, and roots. Various colours, such as red, green, brown, yellow, grey, black, are produced depending on local knowledge and practices.<br />
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The women of Manandriana still use simple tools, old wooden looms, during weaving and various weaving groups in Amoron’i Mania are benefiting from essential technical and material assistance from NY TANINTSIKA’s project.<br />
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For a selection of handwoven wild silk scarves from the project please visit our online shop<br />
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I hope you have enjoyed learning about African wild silk and as usual if you have any views please share them<br />
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From my <a href="http://ethnicsupplies.org/" target="_blank">blog</a>